The Red Lion - King Of The Eats

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Still giving Ealing restaurants a run for their money (and not just the gastros)

The rise of the 'gastro pub' has brought with it expectations of a fine dining experience within the comfort of a pub. Except the virtual pub is usually furnished more for aesthetic appeal than comfort, and you'd often describe the food as at best 'fine'.

And then there's The Red Lion. I had always seen it as a 'pub' - a good pint and chips number. Not somewhere with food to write home about I figured. Forget writing home, this one has proved impossible to write a review about – it's just too good! Couldn't find anything to complain about at all.

The atmosphere was everything that has made it such a household name. When I went it was full of artists and art appreciators turned out of the PM Gallery. It is usually fed by Ealing Studios, and a wealth of regulars so you're never short of entertainment. The décor reminds you of the historic link with the studios and the furnishing is aging gracefully.

We only went in for a pint and chips, but the helpful barman would hear none of it. Probably because chips aren't on the menu! At least not without a sidekick. My friend stepped up her order to a burger and chips (£8.95) keeping to our original theme, but there was just too much on the menu to allow me to follow suit. I was pretty easily persuaded by the Confit of Duck with Sweet Potato Mash, Asparagus and Caramelized Onion Sauce (13.95).

Beer was out now that we had been forced to eat so finely, so we plumped for a couple of glasses of Tempranillo (£4.20 for a large glass).

Food is ordered at a separate till from the bar and must be paid for before sitting back down. Pretty basic stuff. Our food was anything but.

Wow! I haven't ever eaten so well in Ealing. The duck was all the old cliches in one – melt in the mouth, fall off the bone, crisp to perfection... It was just plain gorgeous! And with it asparagus. I've come to expect soggy limp spears – one or two if I'm lucky. Here, more than a handful of firm, fresh ones really hit the mark. Mashed sweet potato complemented the dish perfectly. And the sauce was good enough to leave me wishing I wasn't in polite company so I could lick the plate.

Okay enough! All this appreciation is starting to make even me feel slightly nauseous, but really, this food was good.

My friend's burger came with cheddar, caramelized onions and plenty of really good chips, proving that I was right all along – this is also somewhere for potatoes of the chipped variety after all.

 

Charlie Canniff

Not on The Red Lion payroll!

March 3, 2007